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Categories: Tradition, Art, Nature
Asciano, the Town of Charm
"...I should go to Asciano to acquire the charm I lack..." thus Giosuè Carducci mentions Asciano. But do you know why? Discover it with this loop route that will take you through village streets and open countryside, revealing many hidden treasures in the heart of the Crete Senesi.
This itinerary is part of the Crete Senesi Life Park trail network, a widespread and expanding park aimed at showcasing the best of Asciano's territory.
What you will see during the path:
The mills of Asciano, spread mainly along the Bestina stream, formed an ingenious and well-organized system that harnessed hydraulic energy to grind grain and, in the Middle Ages, even to process metals. Historical documents suggest that about 12 mills once existed here. Remnants of some of these mills, as well as parts of their infrastructure (canals and dams), are still visible today, bearing witness to the activities of the past.
Mentioned in a document from 714 AD, the church is one of the oldest in the area, and archaeological finds suggest earlier Roman activity. Currently privately owned, the Pieve features a rectangular hall with remnants of a former basilica layout of three naves. Its Romanesque facade is adorned with a simple, round-arched portal. Inside, a frescoed "Sacra Conversazione" might conceal a youthful portrait of Raphael.
Standing with majestic simplicity over the Ombrone River, this bridge offers a captivating view. Its name, shrouded in mystery, is linked to a legend from the Battle of Montaperti in 1260, where the Asciano troops displayed remarkable courage. Other theories connect "Garbo" to fine fabrics or to the bridge's graceful architecture. Documented since the 13th century, the bridge has undergone several reconstructions, the most recent in the 1940s after being destroyed by retreating Nazi forces.
The chapel was built by the community of Asciano toward the end of the 15th century. Characterized by a single nave layout, it houses a fresco representing the "Assumption of the Virgin." The original entrance, formed by a brick arch, was closed, likely between 1583 and 1596. The chapel's location along the Lauretana Road is no coincidence: it is an important spiritual landmark for pilgrims and travelers seeking protection and blessing.
Constructed with local stone between the late 1200s and early 1300s, these walls defended the village of Asciano, an important mercantile and productive center at the time. Interspersed with towers, they still partially enclose the historic center, bearing witness to the vitality and strategic importance of Asciano along medieval trade routes. Today, these ancient fortifications recount a time when security and commerce were fundamental to community life.
Asciano was once accessible through five gates, of which only one remains today: Porta Senese, also known as "Porta dei Bianchi" due to its proximity to the holdings of this historic family. Reconstructed in modern times, the gate preserves at its top the ancient coats of arms that adorned it in medieval times. As in the past, it still welcomes travelers arriving from Siena along the Via Lauretana.
Adjacent to Porta Senese and the walls, the garden preserves the memory of Donato di Becco, a notary born around 1280. During the plague of 1348, he did not hesitate to help the sick by drafting their last wills; unfortunately, he too fell victim to the epidemic, and his final document testifies to his struggle against the disease with a trembling script. Among his writings is a poignant poem that expresses the anguish of a community afflicted by relentless death.
Inaugurated on May 18, 2002, the Corboli Museum is considered “one of the finest small museums in Italy” and is recognized as a “Museum of Regional Significance” by Tuscany. The building, dating back to the 1200s, has undergone many changes over the centuries. It spans three floors, preserving rare painting cycles of historical and artistic value. The exhibition path, which includes collections from the Museum of Sacred Art and the Etruscan Museum, is divided into three sections: art, archaeology, and ceramics.
The Church, built beginning in the 13th century, overlooks a stretch of the historic Via Lauretana, now Corso Matteotti. In the 15th century, the structure was expanded and given a new brick façade, likely financed by the wealthy Sienese merchant Iacopo Scotti. On the right side, one can admire what remains of the old Augustinian convent, currently used as private residences. Important artworks originating from the church are now displayed in the Palazzo Corboli Museum.
One of the most iconic symbols of Asciano. The sixteenth-century civic tower, with its ancient clock that keeps time with unchanged precision, stands out among the rooftops of the village. At its base, a fountain adorned with a Gorgon head captures the attention of passersby. Its enigmatic gaze seems to hold a secret, inviting anyone who walks by to stop and drink. But there’s an unwritten pact: anyone who accepts the invitation and drinks from this fountain is destined to return to Asciano!
Founded in 1795 by the Francini Naldi family and dedicated to St. Agatha, Asciano’s patron saint, this pharmacy carries a rich family tradition. Restored in 1830, it is a true gem: adorned with refined Empire-style shelving, crafted from fine lacquered wood and embellished with golden details. During the latest restoration, ancient notes and recipes were found, attributed to an ancestor, Francesco Francini Naldi, an 18th-century apothecary and alchemist. This is where the famed Vinpepato was born!
The museum was established in 1991, initially featuring a collection of sketches and works from the atelier of artists Amos and Giuseppe Cassioli, donated by their heirs to the Asciano community. In 2007, the museum was renewed, with the exhibition expanded by works made available by the "Duccio di Buoninsegna" Art High School in Siena, formerly the Academy of Fine Arts, where Amos received his training. It is the only museum entirely dedicated to 19th-century Sienese painting.
First mentioned in documents from 1029 and 1040, this church took on the role of the ancient parish of St. Hippolytus. Its design follows a Latin cross plan, crowned by a hemispherical dome set within an octagonal lantern, rising gracefully at the intersection of the transept and nave. Between the 13th and 14th centuries, the nave was expanded in the Gothic style. In 1542, the church was elevated to a Collegiate Church, and in 1991, it attained the rank of Basilica, solidifying its importance in the local religious tradition.
What you could taste:
Useful information for your visit
How to make the most of the journey
During the summer, it is recommended to walk this trail during the cooler hours of the day. Don't forget to bring water and a hat to protect yourself from the sun. If it has rained, be cautious: the clay that makes up the Crete Senesi can be slippery and very muddy!